Mandawi Kebab and Pulao Houses

The Mandawi Kebab and Pulao Houses are a cluster of traditional eateries by the Mandawi Bazaar in the Old City of Kabul, Afghanistan, where residents of the city eat inexpensive lunches. The bazaar sits in the dense, historic core of Kabul, close to the river and the old markets, and the kebab and pulao houses here cater to traders, porters and shoppers who need a hot, filling meal in the middle of the working day.

Kabuli pulao is the centrepiece, served in generous portions with rice cooked in meat stock, topped with carrots, raisins and a piece of lamb on the bone. Kebab-e deg, a dish of lamb slow-cooked in a pot with onion, tomato and spices, is served with rice or naan, and shorwa, a thin soup of meat, potato and vegetables, is a typical starter or light meal. Bread is baked locally, and green tea is served in pots.

The houses are simple and local, with low tables, benches or basic chairs, and a steady turnover of diners. Noise levels are moderate to high around midday. Dress is casual and modest. There is no alcohol, and conversation and quick service are the norm.

Prices fall in the $ band, among the lowest in the city. The houses are open daily from 11 AM to about 4 PM, and stocks of the main dishes often run out in the afternoon, so arriving at midday is advisable. No reservations are taken. The Old City has narrow, uneven streets and heavy crowds, so visitors should go with a local guide or trusted contact, check current advisories and avoid the area after dark.