Kem Tràng Tiền

Kem Tràng Tiền is an ice-cream institution at 35 Tràng Tiền in the Tràng Tiền ward of Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi, Vietnam, east of Hoàn Kiếm Lake. It has operated on this street since 1958 and is a state-era ice-cream hall in the sense that it dates from the decades when such shops were a public treat in Hanoi. The system is simple: customers buy a token at a kiosk, collect a stick or cone at a hatch and eat standing in the open courtyard. The signature flavour is kem cốm, an ice cream made with young green rice, which is the one most associated with the place and reflects an autumn Hanoi tradition. Other choices include a coconut ice cream stick and a chocolate cone. The cuisine is dessert only, and the appeal is nostalgia as much as flavour: the stick ice creams are simple, sweet and cheap. The setting is informal and open-air, with no dress code and a crowd of families, students and visitors, especially on warm evenings. Noise is moderate and comes largely from the traffic and the crowd. There is no wine programme or table service. The shop opens daily from 8:00 to 22:00 and does not take reservations, so there is nothing to book. Prices are very low, at 15,000 to 30,000 VND (USD 0.60 to 1.15) per item. The location east of the lake, on a central street lined with shops and cafes, makes it an easy stop on a walk around Hoàn Kiếm Lake. Because customers stand to eat, it works best as a short refreshment stop rather than a place to sit for a long time.