An alley operation serving bún đậu on bamboo trays: squares of cut rice noodle, tofu fried to order, boiled pork and herbs, all eaten with fermented shrimp paste whipped with lime and chilli. Seating is plastic stools under an awning between buildings.
Bún Đậu Mắm Tôm Hàng Khay is an alley eatery in Alley 29 Hàng Khay, in the Tràng Tiền ward of Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi, Vietnam, south of Hoàn Kiếm Lake. It serves bún đậu mắm tôm, a Northern Vietnamese tray meal of cut rice-noodle blocks, tofu fried to order, boiled pork and herbs, all eaten with mắm tôm, fermented shrimp paste whipped with lime and chilli. The dish is one of Hanoi's most distinctive and sometimes challenging street foods, as the shrimp paste has a strong smell and taste. The signature dishes are the bún đậu mắm tôm tray itself, chả cốm, patties made with green rice, and nem rán, fried spring rolls. The cuisine is casual Northern street food, and the interest lies in the combination of textures, with crisp tofu against soft noodle and the sharp sauce. The setting is an alley between buildings, with plastic stools and low tables under a covered awning. The atmosphere is informal and social, with no dress code and a mix of groups and travellers. Noise is moderate, and the alley setting can feel crowded at peak meal times. There is no wine programme; beer, tea and soft drinks are the usual drinks. Opening hours are approximately 10:00 to 21:00 daily, and no reservations are taken. Prices are low, around 60,000 to 120,000 VND (USD 2.30 to 4.60) per person, depending on the size of the tray and the extras added. The alley entrance can be hard to spot from the street, so visitors often use a map to find the number. It suits adventurous eaters and groups who want to share a tray, and the shrimp paste can be adjusted by asking for less or by mixing in more lime and chilli.
| Price | 60,000–120,000 VND / USD 2.30–4.60 per person |
|---|---|
| Hours | Daily 10:00–21:00 (approximate) |
| Reservations | No reservations; plastic stools in a covered alley |
| Address | Alley 29 Hàng Khay, Tràng Tiền, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội |
Signature dishes
- Bún đậu mắm tôm (rice noodle, fried tofu and shrimp paste tray)
- Chả cốm (green-rice pork patties)
- Nem rán
Good to know
- Known for
- Tray meals of fried tofu, cut noodle and fermented shrimp paste eaten in an alley
Location
Alley 29 Hàng Khay, Tràng Tiền, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội
21.0248, 105.8556 View on map
Highlights
- Bún đậu tray of noodle blocks, fried tofu and boiled pork
- Fermented shrimp paste whipped with lime and chilli
- Chả cốm green-rice pork patties
- Plastic-stool seating in a covered alley
Tips for visiting
- Start with a small amount of mắm tôm and add lime or chilli to taste.
- Share a tray between two people and add extra tofu or spring rolls.
- Hours are approximate, so check a current source before travelling.
- The alley entrance is easy to miss; look for the number on Hàng Khay.
When to visit
Lunch and early evening are typical times. Off-peak hours in the mid-afternoon are less crowded.
Accessibility
The restaurant is in an alley with low plastic stools and tables, which makes mobility access difficult. Wheelchair access is not likely.
Frequently asked questions
What is bún đậu mắm tôm?
It is a tray of cut rice noodles, fried tofu and boiled pork eaten with fermented shrimp paste, lime and chilli.
Do I need a reservation?
No. Reservations are not taken and seating is on plastic stools.
Is the shrimp paste strong?
Yes. It has a pungent smell and taste, and diners can use less or mix it with lime and chilli.