Central Grocery and Deli

Central Grocery and Deli at 923 Decatur Street in the French Quarter of New Orleans, Louisiana, is the shop credited with inventing the muffuletta. Salvatore Lupo, a Sicilian immigrant, opened the Italian grocery in 1906 to serve the local Sicilian community, and the sandwich emerged when farmers and laborers who shopped at the nearby market were served the separate elements of their lunch stacked together on a round loaf. The result became a New Orleans emblem. The original muffuletta is built on a large round sesame-topped Sicilian loaf layered with Genoa salami, ham, mortadella, provolone and Swiss cheese, and finished with a tangy olive salad of chopped green and black olives, celery, cauliflower, garlic, oregano and olive oil that soaks into the bread. A whole sandwich is large enough for two to four people, which is why it is typically sold in halves, and the flavors improve as the oil settles. The shop remains a working Italian grocery, with shelves of imported pasta, olive oil, cheeses, cured meats, jars of the olive salad and other pantry goods that make good souvenirs. The space is small, narrow and crowded, with a deli counter, a few places to stand or sit, and a nostalgic, old-world feel. Most visitors order at the counter and carry sandwiches out to Jackson Square, the riverfront or Washington Artillery Park. There is no dress code and no reservations, and orders can also be arranged by phone at (504) 523-1620. Hours are daytime-oriented, and the shop is not a late-night stop, so confirm times before going. Lines build at lunch, and the shop can sell out of popular items. Expect to pay about US$12-20 per person, and a half muffuletta is usually plenty for one. The sandwiches are served cold or at room temperature, and visitors who prefer them warm can ask about heating, though purists argue the flavor is best as made, with the olive oil soaked into the bread.