Arnaud's Restaurant

Arnaud's Restaurant at 813 Bienville Street in the French Quarter of New Orleans, Louisiana, opened in 1918 under Arnaud Cazenave, a French-born wine salesman who styled himself Count Arnaud. It grew into one of the grand Creole French restaurants of the city and has been restored and run for decades by the Casbarian family. The menu is traditional Creole French. Shrimp Arnaud, served in a sharp, spicy remoulade, is the house signature starter, and oysters Bienville, a baked oyster dish in a rich sauce, stands alongside bananas Foster and cafe brulot, the flamed coffee-and-spice drink finished at the table. Seafood, turtle soup and veal and beef entrees fill the remainder of the card. The main dining room has mosaic tile floors, ceiling fans, etched glass and white tablecloths, and the restaurant spreads across multiple rooms and a series of connected buildings. A small museum upstairs displays Mardi Gras gowns worn by Germaine Wells, the founder's daughter, who reigned as queen of numerous Carnival krewes. Next door, the French 75 Bar serves classic cocktails, including the champagne-and-gin drink it is named for, in a dark wood setting with bartenders in jackets, and it is a popular pre-dinner stop. A Sunday jazz brunch brings live music and a festive crowd. Dress is smart: jackets are encouraged at dinner, and beachwear and athletic clothing are not appropriate. The wine list is extensive. The noise level is moderate, and the mood is formal but relaxed. Dinner tables, especially on Friday and Saturday evenings, should be booked at least a week ahead, and several weeks ahead for Sunday brunch during Carnival and holidays. Expect to pay about US$70-120 per person. Weekday lunch menus are usually less expensive than dinner, and the restaurant is a short walk from Bourbon Street, Jackson Square and the Royal Street galleries, so a meal fits easily into a day in the Quarter.