An exquisite 18th-century romantic garden in the northeast of Madrid, featuring labyrinths, a Japanese-style lake, neoclassical statuary, peacocks, a fake medieval bunker, and tree-lined promenades. This hidden gem is much less visited than Retiro and offers a genuinely romantic atmosphere.
El Capricho — formally the Parque de la Alameda de Osuna — is an 18th-century romantic landscape garden in the Hortaleza district of northeastern Madrid, created from 1787 onward by the Duchess of Osuna, one of the most powerful and cultured aristocratic women of Enlightenment Spain. Influenced by both the English romantic garden tradition and the French formal garden, the Duchess employed leading landscape designers and architect Pedro Arnal to create a garden that became the setting for celebrated private gatherings of Spain's Enlightenment elite — Goya was among the frequent guests and painted multiple portraits of the Osuna family.
The garden covers 14 hectares and is organised around a network of paths linking different character zones. The formal French parterre adjacent to the main palace building is planted in geometric patterns of clipped box and seasonal bedding. Beyond it, the English romantic section unfolds across a lakeside landscape with serpentine paths, mature trees — plane trees, chestnuts, and stone pines over 200 years old — and a series of architectural follies: a circular neoclassical temple, a neo-medieval fortified house, a hermit's cell, a labyrinth, and a Japanese-style island on the lake reached by an ornamental bridge.
After the Osuna family's bankruptcy in the 1830s the garden fell into neglect and was subsequently used as a military training area. Spanish Civil War bunkers from 1936–39, when the area formed part of Madrid's defensive perimeter, remain visible beneath the trees — an unexpected and haunting reminder of the city's recent history. The garden was restored in the 1970s and is managed by Madrid City Council. It opens only on weekends and public holidays, giving it the atmosphere of a private discovery for the visitors who make the journey to the northeastern outskirts.
| Admission | Free |
|---|---|
| Hours | Sat–Sun & holidays 09:00–21:00 (winter until 18:30); closed weekdays |
| Typical visit | 1.5–2 hours |
| Best time | morning |
| Address | Paseo de la Alameda de Osuna s/n, 28042 Madrid |
Good to know
- Best for
- couples, nature lovers, families
Location
Paseo de la Alameda de Osuna s/n, 28042 Madrid
40.4664, -3.6216 View on map
Highlights
- 14 hectares of 18th-century romantic landscape with plane trees, chestnuts, and stone pines over 200 years old
- A series of garden follies including a neoclassical temple, hermit's cell, labyrinth, and Japanese-style island
- The formal French parterre with geometric box hedging adjacent to the restored Osuna palace building
- Spanish Civil War bunkers hidden beneath the trees — haunting remnants of Madrid's 1936–39 siege
- Peacocks roaming freely through the garden — descendants of the Duchess of Osuna's original exotic collection
Tips for visiting
- Only open weekends and public holidays
- Perfect for a picnic — bring a blanket and supplies from a nearby supermarket
When to visit
Spring visits in April and May when wisteria, roses, and ornamental blossoms are at their peak are the most rewarding. Arriving early on a Sunday morning before 10:00 gives the garden in near-solitude — a genuinely special experience in an extraordinary historic landscape.
Accessibility
The main central paths through El Capricho are paved or compacted gravel and accessible for wheelchairs on the principal routes. Some areas — particularly the natural woodland paths and the lakeside section — are on uneven terrain. The labyrinth's narrow hedged paths are not wheelchair accessible.
Frequently asked questions
When does El Capricho Park open?
Only on Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays from approximately 09:00, closing at 18:30 in winter and 21:00 in summer. The park does not open on weekdays.
How do visitors reach El Capricho Park?
The park is in the Hortaleza district in northeast Madrid. The nearest metro station is Canillejas (line 5), from which it is a 15-minute walk. Bus routes 105 and 281 also serve the area from the city centre.
Is El Capricho Park worth visiting for non-garden enthusiasts?
Yes — the follies, the accessible Civil War bunkers, the freely roaming peacocks, and the extraordinary tranquillity of a 200-year-old landscape make it rewarding for any visitor interested in history, photography, or escaping tourist crowds.