El Xampanyet

El Xampanyet is a Barcelona institution — a traditional cava bar on Carrer de Montcada in El Born that has been pouring its house sparkling wine from barrel since 1929. The bar takes its name from 'xampanyet', a Catalan style of light, slightly sweet sparkling wine that predates the codification of cava as a denomination. The house xampanyet here is served very cold, poured at the bar into small glasses, and accompanied by a selection of simple tapas that form the pillars of traditional Catalan bar food: canned anchovies in oil, pa amb tomàquet, and a small plate of olives. The interior is one of the most beautiful in El Born — hand-painted azulejo tiles in blue and white, barrels stacked behind the bar, photographs and old ephemera covering every surface — and has been maintained in its original condition with commendable faithfulness. Carrer de Montcada is one of the most atmospheric medieval streets in Barcelona, lined with palaces now converted into museums, and El Xampanyet has stood at number 22 through all of that history. The bar opens at midday for lunch service and again in the evening, and closes on Mondays. No reservations are taken. Arriving at opening time gives the best chance of a comfortable spot at the bar or one of the few small tables.