Begur and Costa Brava Coves

Begur, a hilltop town of approximately 3,700 permanent residents in the Baix Empordà comarca of Girona province, sits 160 metres above one of the most spectacular stretches of coastline on the entire Costa Brava. The town is crowned by the ruins of a 10th-century castle whose towers offer 360-degree views encompassing the sea, the Gavarres hills, and on clear days the peaks of the Pyrenees. Begur's streets are lined with imposing 19th-century indiano mansions — homes built by Catalans who returned wealthy from Cuba and Puerto Rico, their architectural exuberance and tropical details (palm trees, vivid paint colors, Moorish tiles) giving the town a distinctive character absent elsewhere in the region. Five coves within walking distance of the town center make Begur one of the finest bases on the coast: Sa Riera is a working fishing village with a sandy beach and several restaurants; Aiguafreda is a sheltered arc of clear water accessible by a 25-minute footpath; Sa Tuna, most photographers' favorite, is a small rocky cove flanked by old fishermen's cottages, with turquoise water and two simple seafood terraces; Aiguablava, the largest and most accessible, has a historic Parador hotel on the headland above a turquoise bay; and Fornells offers a sheltered inlet with a sailing club. The Camí de Ronda coastal walking path connects all five coves and continues south to Palafrugell and Calella de Palafrugell. In August the town and all coves operate at maximum capacity — accommodation must be booked months in advance and cars parked away from the coves before 10AM.