The Camino de la Virgen is an ancient mule track linking the deep coastal valley of Valle Gran Rey on La Gomera's west coast with the traditional village of Alajero on the island's high southern plateau. The route follows one of the historic caminos reales — royal roads — that once connected La Gomera's isolated communities before motor roads reached the island's interior, offering an immersive journey through terraced banana plantations, abandoned rural hamlets, and open highland scrub with sweeping Atlantic Ocean views. Valle Gran Rey is reachable by bus from San Sebastián de La Gomera (bus line 5, approximately 1.5 hours) or by the Fred Olsen or Naviera Armas ferry from Los Cristianos on Tenerife (about 50 minutes to San Sebastián). The village has restaurants, accommodation, and a tourist office. From the valley floor, the trail begins almost at sea level and climbs approximately 800 metres over the course of the route. The trail covers approximately 14 kilometres with 700 metres of elevation gain over five hours at a moderate pace. The path surface is largely traditional stone-paved mule track, well-preserved in sections but eroded on steeper pitches. Shade is plentiful in the lower valley but diminishes on the high plateau approaching Alajero. Key highlights include dramatic views back down into the emerald Valle Gran Rey, the ruins of the abandoned hamlet Las Hayas de Alajero mid-route, and the abrupt transition from subtropical valley vegetation to dry open plateau scrub in the final kilometre before Alajero. Alajero village has a bus stop on the GUAGUA La Gomera network for the return journey to Valle Gran Rey or San Sebastián de La Gomera. No permanent water sources are guaranteed on the trail; hikers must carry at least 2 litres.
Trail facts
- Best season
- March to June and September to November
Highlights
- Ancient mule track, banana terraces, village life, sea views
Tips for visiting
- Check the GUAGUA La Gomera bus timetable from Alajero before departing — the return service runs infrequently.
- Start from the valley in early morning to avoid climbing in midday heat on the exposed upper sections.
- The lower valley sections can be overgrown in spring and summer — long trousers protect against scrub.
- Carry 2 litres of water per person; no reliable water sources exist on the mid- or upper route.
- Walking poles ease the steep initial ascent from near sea level in Valle Gran Rey.
When to visit
March to June and September to November offer the most pleasant temperatures for the ascent. Midsummer can be uncomfortably warm in the sun-exposed upper sections once above the valley shade.
Accessibility
The Camino de la Virgen is entirely unsuitable for wheelchairs or strollers. The route traverses stone-paved mule track, steep climbs, and remote terrain with no accessible sections.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Camino de la Virgen a marked trail?
The route is partially marked with GR 132 long-distance walking waymarks (red-and-white stripes) and PR local markers. Signage can be inconsistent in places; a downloaded GPS track is recommended alongside any printed map.
Can the route be hiked in reverse, from Alajero to Valle Gran Rey?
Yes — starting from Alajero on the high plateau avoids the steep initial climb and results in a mostly downhill route to the valley, which many hikers prefer. A bus from San Sebastián de La Gomera reaches Alajero.
What is the Silbo Gomero?
The Silbo Gomero is a whistled language used historically by La Gomera's inhabitants to communicate across the island's deep ravines. It is listed as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity and is still taught in island schools.
Are there accommodation options along the route?
Valle Gran Rey offers a good range of guesthouses, apartments, and small hotels. Alajero has basic village amenities. No accommodation exists along the trail itself between the two endpoints.