Hernani and Astigarraga cider houses

The sagardotegi (cider house) valley around Astigarraga and Hernani in Gipuzkoa, Spain, lies about 7 to 10 km south-east of San Sebastian and is the traditional home of Basque cider. The journey takes about 15 to 20 minutes by car or bus. Lurraldebus or Dbus serve Astigarraga and Hernani, and Euskotren stops at both towns, with a short walk or taxi to the cider houses; a taxi costs roughly EUR 15 to EUR 25 (about USD 17.25 to USD 28.75, an estimate). Cider houses have parking, but those planning to drink should use transit or a taxi. The main attraction is the cider house meal: cider is poured straight from large barrels in a ritual known as txotx, where diners walk to the barrels and catch a thin stream in their glasses. The traditional set menu includes a cod omelette, grilled cod with peppers, a thick beef chop cooked over embers, and cheese served with walnuts and quince paste. Cider season runs from about January to April, when the new cider is ready, and reservations are essential, especially at weekends and for groups. A suggested day starts at Sagardoetxea, the Basque Cider Museum in Astigarraga, in the late morning to learn about apple varieties and the cider-making process. Lunch at a nearby sagardotegi follows, usually starting around midday and lasting two hours or more. In the afternoon, a short walk through the surrounding countryside or Hernani's old centre helps balance the meal. Outside the season, many cider houses still open, though barrel tasting may be limited, so confirmation by phone or website is advised. Arriving hungry and booking ahead are the two most useful preparations for the visit.