Niš

Niš is the largest city in southern Serbia, about 240 km south of Belgrade, and it carries layers of Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman history. It is the birthplace of the Roman emperor Constantine the Great. The trip takes about 3 hours by bus or car. Buses run from the BAS station every 30 to 60 minutes for about 2,000 to 2,600 RSD one way, trains run a few times daily for roughly 1,500 to 2,000 RSD (check srbijavoz.rs), and driving costs about 3,500 RSD in tolls and fuel. This is a long day trip, and an early start is essential. The main sight is Niš Fortress, an Ottoman-era fortification of the early 18th century set in a large riverside park on the Nišava, with gates, walls, a mosque and cafes. The Skull Tower (Ćele Kula) is a chapel-like monument built in 1809 with the skulls of Serbian fighters from the Battle of Čegar. The Mediana archaeological site, a few kilometres east of the centre, preserves the remains of a Roman villa estate connected with Constantine, with mosaics and an imperial complex. Further memorials include the Red Cross concentration camp museum and the Bubanj memorial. Niš is known for its hospitality and food: grilled meats such as the Leskovac-style pljeskavica, burek and the local kafana culture. A suggested day is to arrive by mid-morning, visit the fortress and the Skull Tower, have lunch at a kafana, take a taxi to Mediana in the afternoon, and return on an evening bus. April to October is the best period; summer can be very hot in the Nišava valley. Because of the distance, an overnight stay allows time for Mediana and the evening kafana scene, and visitors with only one day should plan the order of sights in advance.