Skadarlija Bohemian Quarter

Skadarlija is a short cobbled street, Skadarska ulica, in the Stari Grad district of Belgrade, Serbia, about a five-minute walk east of Republic Square. It is nicknamed Belgrade's Montmartre because it flourished from the late 19th century as a home and meeting place for writers, actors and artists. Today the street is lined with traditional kafanas, old-style restaurants with ornate signs, shaded terraces and hanging lanterns, and it is the best-known place in the city for Serbian grilled meat, served in generous mixed platters, and for rakija, the local fruit brandy. Visitors mostly come to walk the length of the street, which takes only a few minutes, and then to sit down for a long meal. In the evening, bands playing tamburitza and folk music move between the tables, creating the atmosphere the quarter is known for. Meals typically cost 1,800-3,500 RSD per person, and prices are higher than in ordinary neighbourhood restaurants, reflecting the setting and the music. The street itself is open at all times and free to walk, while most kafanas serve from about 11:00 to midnight. A visit lasts one to two hours, or about three with dinner. Lunch is calmer and cheaper in practice, but the evening is when the quarter is liveliest, and tables on the terraces fill quickly from around 19:00, especially on weekends and in summer. Reservations are sensible for groups. For photographs, the best angles are along the cobbles looking toward the wrought-iron signs, and in the late afternoon when the light is soft and the street is not yet crowded. Visitors should check menu prices before ordering, since tourist-facing venues can add charges for music or bread. Skadarlija pairs well with a walk along Knez Mihailova and the nearby Bohemian-era cafes, and it is easily reached on foot from the main pedestrian street.