Khyber Pakhtunkhwa is Pakistan's northwestern province, a mountainous region bordering Afghanistan that holds Peshawar, one of South Asia's oldest living cities, the Gandhara Buddhist ruins of Takht-i-Bahi, and the Himalayan, Karakoram and Hindu Kush valleys of Swat, Kaghan, Chitral and Dir. Travel conditions vary sharply by district, and official advisories advise against all or most travel to much of the province.
Cultural orientation
Essential context for travellers.
Khyber Pakhtunkhwa is the heartland of the Pashtun people, whose code of conduct, Pashtunwali, centres on hospitality (melmastia), honour (nang) and protection of guests; visitors are often offered tea, food and help without expectation of return
Accept offered tea (chai or kehwa) when invited into a shop or home; refusing outright can cause offence, and a polite sip with thanks is acceptable
Peshawar, Swat, Chitral and Hazara each have their own language and customs: Pashto dominates Peshawar and Swat, Khowar in Chitral, Hindko in Abbottabad and Mansehra, and Kohistani languages in the Kohistan valleys
Dress conservatively everywhere outside tourist resorts: shalwar kameez is widely worn by both men and women, and women commonly carry a dupatta or scarf
Expect segregated public life in many areas; in rural districts men's spaces such as hujras and tea stalls are largely male-only, while family sections exist in many restaurants
Photography of women, military installations, checkpoints and government buildings is sensitive; always ask before photographing people
Friday is the weekly congregational prayer day and many bazaars open late or close in the early afternoon; prayer times punctuate the day and shops may briefly shut
During Ramadan, eating, drinking and smoking in public during daylight hours is discouraged; many restaurants close until sunset iftar
Visiting Kalash communities in Bumburet, Rumbur and Birir requires respect for local customs: do not enter sacred sites such as the Jestak Han, and do not photograph women without consent
Carry a photocopy of passport and visa and expect police checks on some roads; they are routine and are best met with patience and politeness
Do's and don'ts
Quick guide to local norms.
Do
- Greet with 'Assalam-o-Alaikum' and, for men, a handshake with the right hand; placing the right hand over the heart is a polite greeting for elders
- Dress modestly: long sleeves and loose trousers for men and a loose shalwar kameez with a dupatta for women
- Accept tea and food offered by hosts, and compliment the hospitality
- Remove shoes when entering mosques, shrines and many private homes
- Use the right hand for eating, passing objects and greeting
- Ask permission before photographing people, especially women and elders
- Carry small notes in PKR for bazaars, tea stalls and rickshaws, as change is often scarce
- Check road and security conditions and travel with a licensed local operator in remote districts, as foreigners may need a No Objection Certificate (NOC) or escort in certain areas
- Bargain politely in bazaars and walk away with a smile if the price is not agreed
- Try local specialities such as chapli kebab, charsi tikka and kehwa in the places that locals frequent
Don't
- Don't drink alcohol in public or bring it into traditional areas; alcohol is prohibited for Muslims and sold only through licensed outlets to non-Muslims in a few cities
- Don't photograph military installations, bridges, airports or checkpoints
- Don't point the soles of your feet at people or sacred objects and don't use the left hand for eating or passing items
- Don't enter a mosque during prayers unless invited, and non-Muslims should not enter mosques without permission
- Don't show public displays of affection; they are widely considered inappropriate
- Don't initiate handshakes with women unless they extend a hand first; a hand over the heart and a nod is polite
- Don't discuss politics, militancy or sectarian issues casually with strangers
- Don't enter the sacred Kalash areas such as the Jestak Han shrines or touch festival items
- Don't eat, drink or smoke in public during Ramadan daylight hours
- Don't wander off-road in border districts without local guidance and permission
Local customs
Traditions and practices you'll encounter.
Etiquette by setting
How to navigate everyday situations.
- Greetings
- 'Assalam-o-Alaikum' (reply 'Wa-Alaikum-Assalam') is universal; Pashtuns often add 'Starey mashey' (may you not be tired) or ask repeated questions about health and family; men embrace among close friends; women are generally greeted verbally
- Dining
- Meals are eaten with the right hand or with naan; guests are served first and often offered the best cuts; sharing from large platters is common; hosts may insist repeatedly that guests take more
- Dress
- Modest, loose clothing is the norm: shalwar kameez for men and women; women should cover their hair with a dupatta in more conservative areas such as Peshawar's Old City, Swat's villages and the southern districts; shorts and sleeveless tops are unsuitable outside private resorts
- Gifts
- Sweets (mithai), dried fruit or Peshawari chappals are suitable gifts; gifts are offered and received with both hands, and alcohol should never be given
- Business
- Personal relationships and hospitality precede business; meetings often begin with tea and conversation; punctuality is flexible; dress formally in a suit or shalwar kameez
- Tipping
- Tipping ('baksheesh') of roughly 10 percent is appreciated in restaurants where no service charge is added; small tips of PKR 100-500 (approx USD 0.36-1.81) for hotel staff, drivers and guides are customary
Useful phrases
A few words go a long way.
Assalam-o-Alaikum
Hello / Peace be upon you
as-sa-LAAM oh a-LAY-kum
Shukriya
Thank you
SHOOK-ree-ya
Yeh kitne ka hai?
How much is this?
yeh KIT-nay ka hay
Bohat mehnga hai
Too expensive
BO-hut MEH-nga hay
Bathroom kahan hai?
Where is the bathroom?
bath-room ka-HAAN hay
Salaam
Hello
sa-LAAM
Starey mashey
Welcome (may you not be tired)
STAH-ray MAH-shay
Sanga yey?
How are you?
SAN-ga yay
Manana
Thank you
ma-NA-na
Ao / Na
Yes / No
aw / naa
Da Khudai pa amaan
Goodbye (in God's protection)
da khu-DAI pa a-MAAN
Da tsa qeemat dai?
What is the price?
da tsa KEE-mat dai
Ki haal ay?
How are you?
kee HAAL ay
Meherbani
Thank you
meh-her-BAA-nee
Ishpata
Hello (Chitral)
ish-PA-ta
Religion & spirituality
Understanding faith in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa.
Main: Sunni Islam is the dominant faith, with Shia communities in Kurram, Hangu and Peshawar and Ismaili communities in Chitral; a small Kalash population of a few thousand follows an indigenous polytheistic religion in the Bumburet, Rumbur and Birir valleys
Sites: Mahabat Khan Mosque (Peshawar), the Buddhist monastery of Takht-i-Bahi, the Gandharan sites of Swat, and the Kalash Jestak Han shrines are key religious and heritage sites
Holy Days: Eid-ul-Fitr, Eid-ul-Adha, Ashura (Muharram), Mawlid and Ramadan are observed; Chilam Joshi (mid-May), Uchau (late August) and Chaumos (December) are the Kalash festivals
Conversations: Religion is part of daily life and conversation; visitors may be asked about faith and family and are expected to be respectful; avoid debating religion