Larache and Lixus Roman Ruins

Larache is an Atlantic port town at the mouth of the Loukkos river in northern Morocco, about 85 km south-west of Tangier and roughly 1 hour 15 minutes by road. Buses and shared grand taxis run from the Tangier bus station for about 40 to 60 MAD ($4.30-6.50), and a petit taxi then covers the 4 km to the Lixus archaeological site north-east of town for about 20 to 40 MAD ($2.15-4.30). Larache itself has a Spanish colonial heritage centred on Place de la Libération, an arcaded square with a fountain and cafes, with the old medina nearby, a fishing port and the ruined Kebibat fortress and Fortress of La Cigogne on the seafront. Lixus, on a hill above the river, is among the oldest settlements in Morocco, with Phoenician and later Roman remains including a theatre-amphitheatre, mosaics, fish-salting vats and temple foundations. Entry is low or free, to be confirmed on arrival, and there is no food or drink at the site, so water should be brought. A sensible day starts with the morning bus, a direct taxi to Lixus while temperatures are lower, then two hours exploring the hill and its views over the river and marshes. In the early afternoon, visitors can return to town for lunch at a fish restaurant near the port or around the square, costing about 50 to 110 MAD ($5.40-12), then walk through the medina, the colourful market and the seafront ramparts before taking a late-afternoon bus back. The best seasons are March to June and September to November. The Lixus hill has little shade in summer, so midday heat should be avoided. Sturdy shoes are advisable for the uneven ruins. Larache is also known for the grave of the writer Jean Genet, in the Spanish cemetery near the old town, which some visitors seek out. The town works well as a quiet addition to coastal itineraries.