Spanish Mosque (Bouzaafer)

The Spanish Mosque, known locally as Bouzaafer, is a whitewashed mosque on the Jebel el-Kalaa hillside above the Oued el-Kebir, facing Chefchaouen across the valley in the Rif mountains of northern Morocco. It was built by the Spanish authorities in the 1920s, during the period when northern Morocco was a Spanish protectorate, and it has never been used for regular worship, which is why visitors can approach it freely. The building itself is simple, with a domed prayer hall and a short minaret, and is not open for visits inside. The reason to climb is the view: from the hill, the whole blue-washed medina lies spread out below, framed by the cliffs of the Rif behind it. The walk starts at Ras el-Maa, where visitors cross the river at the edge of the medina and follow a path uphill; it takes 20 to 40 minutes each way depending on fitness, so a return trip takes 1.5 to 2 hours. The path is steep in places, rocky and exposed, with little shade, and a small cafe or refreshment seller may operate near the top in busy seasons. The best time to go is about an hour before sunset on a clear day, when the light turns the walls golden and then pink, and the town begins to light up. Photographers can find angles along the path, with the medina in the foreground and the mountains behind. The viewpoint is busiest in the hour around sunset, especially in spring, summer and on weekends, when dozens of visitors gather on the terrace in front of the mosque. Early morning is much quieter, though the light is flatter. Visitors should carry water, wear sturdy shoes, bring a torch or use a phone light for the descent after dusk, and keep to the main path. No ticket or fee is required for the mosque or the climb.