Zawiya of Moulay Idriss II

The Zawiya of Moulay Idriss II is the spiritual heart of Fès el-Bali, in the Fès-Meknès region of Morocco. It enshrines Idris II, the Idrisid ruler who made Fès his capital in the early 9th century, and it remains one of the most venerated pilgrimage sites in the country. The shrine sits in the Derb Chorfa quarter, a short walk from Place Seffarine and the Nejjarine fountain, and its green-tiled roof and ornate doorway rise above a tightly packed knot of lanes. Non-Muslims cannot enter, but visitors can stand at the threshold of the main doorway and look into the courtyard, where carved cedar, zellige tilework, hanging lamps and a richly decorated tomb chamber can be glimpsed. A wooden beam is fixed across the lane outside to prevent mules and donkeys from passing, which gives the approach a distinct hush. Around the entrance, pilgrims touch the walls, kiss the doorframe, pray and leave candles or offerings, and nearby stalls sell candles, incense and religious souvenirs. The surrounding streets are among the best places in the medina to watch everyday devotion. A visit takes about 20 minutes, though it combines naturally with the coppersmiths' square, the Qarawiyyin area and the Nejjarine Museum in a single walking loop. Late afternoon, before the evening prayer, is when worshippers gather most and the atmosphere is liveliest, while early morning is calmer and better for photographs of the architecture. Photography of worshippers should be avoided without permission, and interior shots from the doorway are discouraged. Crowds peak on Fridays and during religious festivals such as the Mawlid and the annual moussem of Moulay Idriss II, when the quarter becomes extremely busy. Modest dress with covered shoulders and knees is expected, and visitors are asked to speak quietly. Unofficial guides sometimes offer help finding the shrine, and a polite refusal is usually sufficient.