Place Seffarine (Coppersmiths' Square)

Place Seffarine, the Coppersmiths' Square, is a small open space in Fès el-Bali, Morocco, set in front of the Qarawiyyin library and close to the Qarawiyyin Mosque. The square is lined with workshops where brass and copper are hammered by hand into pots, trays, kettles, lanterns and large cauldrons, and the constant metallic ringing can be heard from the surrounding lanes. Visitors can watch smiths at work, see sheets of metal being cut, beaten and engraved, and compare finished pieces on display, from small decorative trays to huge cooking vessels used for weddings and festivals. The square also offers a view of the carved doorway of the historic Qarawiyyin library, one of the oldest libraries in the world. Prices are negotiable, and bargaining is expected, so it helps to compare several workshops before buying. A visit usually takes about 30 minutes, though shoppers and photographers often stay longer. Workshops generally operate from about 8:30 to 18:00, closing on Friday morning and often on Sunday. Mid-morning, when hammering is in full swing, is the best time to come; early mornings are quieter but fewer smiths are working, and tour groups are most visible around late morning. The square is reached on foot from the Qarawiyyin area; asking for Seffarine and following the sound of hammering is the usual method, and it fits naturally with the Zawiya of Moulay Idriss II and the Nejjarine Museum nearby. Photography of the craftsmen is generally welcomed, but asking permission first is courteous. Mind the narrow approach lanes, which are busy with porters and mules.