Chouara Tannery

The Chouara Tannery lies in Derb Chouara in the eastern part of Fès el-Bali, in Morocco's Fès-Meknès region, and is the largest and best known of the city's leather-working districts. Hides are still processed by traditional methods that have changed little over centuries. From the terraces of the surrounding leather shops, visitors look down on a honeycomb of round stone vats: some hold white baths used to soften and clean the hides, others hold natural and modern dyes in shades of red, yellow, blue and brown, and workers stand waist-deep, treading and turning the skins. Leather goods made from the finished hides are sold in the shops that ring the tannery, including jackets, bags, belts and slippers. The smell is strong, especially in warm weather, which is why staff hand out sprigs of fresh mint at the door to hold under the nose. A visit is free in principle, but guides or shop staff will escort visitors up to the terraces and a tip of 20 to 50 MAD is customary; there is usually an expectation of at least looking in the showroom. Most visitors spend 30 to 60 minutes. Morning, roughly 9:00 to 11:30, is the best time, because the hides are being dyed and the light on the vats is good; by afternoon activity is lower. The terraces are the main vantage point, and photographs look best from the upper floors, where the full pattern of the vats is visible. The tannery is about a 20-minute walk from Bab Bou Jeloud through the narrow lanes, and visitors who ask for Chouara and follow the leather-shop signs will find the entrances. Hawkers may approach on the approach lanes, and it helps to be clear about prices before buying.