Beirut is the capital and largest city of Lebanon, a Mediterranean port of mosques, churches, Ottoman and French-mandate architecture, museums, corniche promenades and one of the Arab world's best food scenes. In October 2026 it is also a city under very restrictive government travel advisories (US Level 4 Do Not Travel; Canada avoid all travel; Australia do not travel; UK against all travel to parts of the city), so this guide leads with the security picture and then covers what is open, where to stay and eat, and how to get around.
Beirut's food is the Lebanese cooking of the Levant: dozens of small cold and hot mezze dishes (hummus, moutabal, tabbouleh, fattoush, kibbeh, fatayer) shared across the table, followed by charcoal grills such as shish tawook, kafta and lamb. Everyday eating happens at manakish bakeries (za'atar, cheese or meat flatbreads at breakfast), falafel and shawarma counters, and juice bars. Beirut also carries strong Armenian influence from Bourj Hammoud (basturma, soujouk, manti, lahm bi ajin), and a French-influenced cafe and bistro scene in Gemmayzeh, Mar Mikhael and Achrafieh. Wine from the Bekaa and arak (aniseed spirit) accompany meals. Since the 2019 banking collapse most menus are priced in US dollars, with LBP at about 89,500 per USD; confirm which currency is accepted before ordering. Many venues reduce hours or close during security flare-ups, so check opening on Google Maps each day.
Must-try dishes
Iconic dishes that define Beirut.
Mezze spread with hummus, moutabal and tabbouleh
Small plates shared at the table; the heart of Lebanese dining, with hot dishes such as kibbeh and sambousek added.
Where to try: Em Sherif, Al Falamanki, Tawlet
Price: USD 15-60 per person (~1.3-5.4 million LBP), estimate
Manoushe (za'atar or cheese flatbread)
Baked flatbread topped with za'atar and olive oil, cheese, or meat; the standard Beirut breakfast.
Where to try: Zaatar w Zeit, Barbar
Price: USD 2-5 (~0.18-0.45 million LBP), estimate
Chicken shawarma
Marinated chicken shaved from a vertical spit, wrapped in saj bread with garlic sauce and pickles.
Where to try: Barbar (Hamra)
Price: USD 3-6 (~0.27-0.54 million LBP), estimate
Falafel sandwich
Crisp chickpea patties with tahini, tomato and pickled turnip in thin bread.
Where to try: Falafel Sahyoun
Price: USD 1.5-3 (~0.13-0.27 million LBP), estimate
Manti and sou beureg
Armenian small dumplings in yoghurt and layered pasta pastry, introduced by Beirut's Armenian community.
Where to try: Mayrig
Price: USD 8-15 per dish (~0.7-1.3 million LBP), estimate
Kebab karaz
Armenian-Lebanese kebab with sour cherry sauce.
Where to try: Mayrig
Price: USD 12-20 (~1.1-1.8 million LBP), estimate
Mujaddara
Lentils and rice topped with fried onions, a classic home-style dish.
Where to try: Le Chef
Price: USD 5-9 (~0.45-0.8 million LBP), estimate
Kanafeh and Lebanese sweets
Warm cheese pastry with syrup, and baklava, mamoul and halawet el jibn from the sweet shops.
Where to try: Sweet shops across Hamra, Gemmayzeh and Bourj Hammoud
Price: USD 3-8 (~0.27-0.72 million LBP), estimate
Top restaurants
Handpicked picks for the best dining experiences.
Restaurants by cuisine
Browse picks grouped by cuisine type.
Burgers And Barbecue
Coffee
French
Manakish
Street food
Local flavours at affordable prices.
Hamra Street shawarma and manoushe counters
Barbar and Zaatar w Zeit anchor Hamra Street, with juice bars and sandwich counters open late.
Find it at: Hamra Street, West Beirut
Damascus Road falafel
Falafel Sahyoun, historic falafel shops side by side near Bachoura.
Find it at: Damascus Road, Bachoura
Bourj Hammoud Armenian snacks
Basturma, soujouk, lahm bi ajin and Armenian bakeries in the Bourj Hammoud district east of the port.
Find it at: Bourj Hammoud
Rue Gouraud and Rue Abourousse snack counters
Sandwich and fatayer counters such as Tabliyit Massaad on the Gemmayzeh strip.
Find it at: Gemmayzeh
Food markets
Where locals shop and graze.
Souk el Tayeb farmers' market
Lebanon's first farmers' market, selling produce, preserves and cooked food from small producers. Time Out lists a Saturday market 09:00-14:00; its restaurant Tawlet is on Armenia Street in Mar Mikhael.
Hours: Saturday about 09:00-14:00 (listing; confirm current location and day by phone on +961 1 448 129)
Bourj Hammoud streets
Dense market streets of spice, nut, sweet and bread shops, best for Armenian foods.
Hours: Typically 09:00-19:00, closed Sunday for many shops; confirm on arrival
Dining etiquette & tips
Navigate the local food scene confidently.
Check opening hours on Google Maps on the day; Beirut venues often shorten hours or close during security tension.
Menus are priced in US dollars at most venues; some quote LBP at about 89,500 per USD. Ask before ordering and carry small US dollar notes.
Reserve upscale venues (Em Sherif, Liza) and Tawlet by phone; casual counters take walk-ins.
A 10-15 percent tip is customary at sit-down restaurants; check whether service is already included.
Power cuts are common; venues run generators, but cards may be unavailable, so keep cash.
Tap water is not recommended for visitors; order bottled water.
Lebanese dining is slow and late: dinner often starts after 20:00 and mezze arrive in waves, so share and pace yourself.
- Halal
- Lebanon is religiously mixed; many restaurants serve pork and alcohol, so ask whether meat is halal if that is important to you. Many counters use halal meat.
- Vegetarian
- Easy: hummus, moutabal, tabbouleh, fattoush, falafel, cheese manakish and mujaddara are vegetarian staples.
- Vegan
- Mezze plates and legume dishes work well; confirm that fatayer and breads contain no dairy.
- Gluten free
- Hard: bread comes with most meals and tabbouleh uses bulgur; grilled meat, salads and rice dishes are safer.
- Allergies
- Sesame (tahini), nuts and dairy are widespread; tell staff clearly and ask what is in sauces.
Food budget guide
What to expect at different price points.
| Level | Price | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Budget | About USD 5-12 per meal (~0.45-1.1 million LBP) | Falafel, shawarma, manakish, Le Chef and Tabliyit Massaad. |
| Mid-range | About USD 15-35 per meal (~1.3-3.1 million LBP) | Mayrig, Couqley, Al Falamanki, Smoking Bun and Al Beiruti. |
| Upscale | About USD 50-90 per meal (~4.5-8.1 million LBP) | Em Sherif and Liza for a full mezze dinner with drinks. |