Cesis

Cesis is one of Latvia's oldest towns, a compact medieval centre in the Vidzeme region about 90 km northeast of Riga, set within Gauja National Park. Buses from the Riga International Coach Terminal at Pragas iela 1 take about 1 hour 45 minutes, and the Vivi train takes about 1 hour 50 minutes, both running several times daily. Drivers can use the A2 and arrive in about 1 hour 20 minutes. Bus and train timetables are listed on 1188.lv and vivi.lv, and returning services should be checked before setting out because frequency is lower than on the nearer Gulf of Riga routes.

The centrepiece is the Cesis Medieval Castle at Pils laukums 9, a Livonian Order stronghold with a ruined older fortress and a later New Castle that houses the town's history museum. Visitors who enter are usually given a lantern to explore the dark towers and stairways, which is a distinctive feature of the visit. Beside the castle, the castle park has a pond and landscaped paths. The old town below holds cobbled streets, the large St John's Church, wooden houses and small craft and ceramic shops, and the town is also known for its local brewery tradition.

A straightforward day starts with an early bus or train to arrive by late morning. The first stop is the castle complex, which needs about two hours, followed by lunch in the old town. The afternoon is suited to a walk through the castle park and the old town streets, then optional time at the local brewery or a short walk toward the Gauja riverbanks. An evening return leaves time for coffee before departure. Those with a car can add viewpoints and sandstone outcrops elsewhere in Gauja National Park.

The best season runs from May to October, when the castle grounds and park are at their best and outdoor cafe seating is available. Winter visits are quieter but the castle may have shorter hours. Food is concentrated in the old town around the castle square. A typical day costs about 20 to 35 EUR with castle entry and lunch.