Kiji

Kiji occupies a stall in the retro Takimi-koji basement plaza of the Umeda Sky Building, an area styled to evoke early Showa-era Osaka with narrow lanes and old signage. The restaurant is best known for negiyaki, a lighter, thinner relative of okonomiyaki built around a mountain of chopped green onion and pork rather than the cabbage-heavy standard batter, giving it a sharper, more savory character than a classic pancake. Kiji also serves the standard pork okonomiyaki for diners who want the more familiar version alongside the specialty. Everything is cooked to order on built-in teppan griddles at the counter, and the open kitchen means diners watch each dish take shape a few feet away. The dining room is compact and informal — counter seating dominates, with the atmospheric basement plaza itself functioning as an extension of the experience, since visitors often wander the recreated old-town lanes before or after eating. There is no wine list; Japanese beer is the standard pairing. Reservations are uncommon for small groups, and the restaurant is closed on Mondays, with lunch generally quieter than the long waits that build in the evening. Kiji does not accept credit cards at all locations, so carrying cash is advisable.