One of Venice's oldest bacari (mentioned in Casanova's memoirs), near the Rialto. Excellent local wines by the glass, superb cicchetti, and an authentic crowd of locals and knowing visitors.
Cantina Do Spade is one of Venice's oldest bacari, tucked down a narrow calle in the San Polo district just steps from the Rialto Market. The name ("of the two swords") dates the spot to the late Middle Ages, and a plaque recalls its mention in Casanova's memoirs, giving it a genuine claim to being among the city's most historic drinking rooms. The atmosphere is unpretentious and convivial: bare brick, dark timber beams, and a tight standing area at the bar that spills into a small dining room behind. The crowd skews local at the start of service and fills with knowing visitors as the evening goes on; there is no dress code and all ages mix freely, from market workers stopping for an ombra to couples lingering over a plate of cicchetti. Music is incidental — the soundtrack is conversation rather than a programme. The drinks focus is firmly Venetian wine: a rotating list of regional bottles and house wine served by the glass (the ombra), plus the obligatory Aperol and Select spritzes. Cicchetti are the real draw, from fried polpette and baccalà mantecato on crostini to seasonal vegetables and cured meats, and the kitchen also turns out full plates of fresh pasta at lunch and dinner. Prices stay modest by Venice standards — an ombra runs a couple of euros and most cicchetti are priced per piece — which keeps the place busy through the afternoon and into the evening. Opening hours follow the bacaro rhythm: a midday service, an afternoon lull, and a busy aperitivo-to-dinner stretch, with the bar typically winding down earlier than late-night Venice spots. Reservations are advisable for a sit-down table in the back room, while the bar itself works on a turn-up basis. It pairs naturally with a Rialto cicchetti crawl, and remains one of the most authentic stops for a taste of old Venice.
Good to know
- Signature
- Traditional Venetian wine and cicchetti
Highlights
- Among Venice's oldest bacari, with a documented mention in Casanova's memoirs and a medieval lineage
- Classic Venetian cicchetti — fried polpette, baccalà mantecato crostini, seasonal small plates
- Local wines and house ombra served by the glass at modest, non-tourist prices
- Hidden San Polo location moments from the Rialto Market, ideal for a cicchetti crawl
- Convivial standing bar plus a small back dining room serving fresh pasta
Tips for visiting
- Arrive in the late afternoon for the most local crowd before the evening visitors fill the bar
- Book ahead for a table in the back room; the standing bar works on a walk-up basis
- Order cicchetti by the piece and pair them with the house ombra to keep the bill low
- Combine it with neighbouring Rialto bacari for a self-guided cicchetti crawl
- Bring cash for quick bar service, though cards are generally accepted for sit-down meals
Frequently asked questions
What is a bacaro and what should visitors order at Cantina Do Spade?
A bacaro is a traditional Venetian wine bar serving small bites called cicchetti alongside wine by the glass. At Cantina Do Spade, order an ombra of local wine and a selection of cicchetti such as baccalà mantecato or fried polpette.
Is Cantina Do Spade expensive?
No. It is one of the more affordable spots in central Venice, with a glass of house wine costing only a few euros and cicchetti priced per piece. A full sit-down meal in the back room costs more but remains reasonable.
Do visitors need a reservation?
Reservations are recommended for a sit-down table in the back dining room, especially in the evening. The standing bar area operates on a walk-up basis without booking.
Where is Cantina Do Spade located?
It sits on a narrow calle in the San Polo district of Venice, only a short walk from the Rialto Market and bridge, making it easy to combine with a wider cicchetti crawl.