Taverna Castelluccio

Taverna Castelluccio is a simple mountain taverna in the tiny hamlet of Castelluccio di Norcia, perched high in the Sibillini mountains above the Piano Grande - the vast upland plain famous for the wildflower bloom (la fioritura) that carpets it each early summer. The setting is the draw: this is one of the highest villages in the Apennines, and the taverna's tables look out over the plateau where the prized Castelluccio lentils are grown. The cooking is honest, zero-kilometre mountain fare built around those lentils. Zuppa di lenticchie di Castelluccio - the lentil soup made from the IGP-protected local pulse - is the signature, alongside norcineria salumi from the celebrated pork tradition of nearby Norcia, and grilled meats and polenta to fortify against the mountain air. Portions are generous and the style rustic rather than refined. The room is plain and welcoming, warmed in cooler weather, with a relaxed, informal mood and a comfortable noise level; dress is casual, and walkers come in straight from the trails. House and regional Umbrian wines round out the short list. Crucially, the taverna is seasonal and weather-dependent: it is busiest from May to September, peaking around the fioritura in June and July, and access to Castelluccio can be limited in winter. Lunch and dinner are served in season. Prices are moderate, good value for the mountain setting. Because the village is small and the fioritura draws crowds, booking ahead or arriving early is wise during peak weeks. First-time visitors should order the lentil soup and a plate of norcineria salumi, then take in the view over the Piano Grande - the reason most people make the climb to Castelluccio.