Ristorante Umbria

Ristorante Umbria is a long-established trattoria just off Piazza del Popolo in the centre of Todi, famous on two counts: open-fire grilled meats cooked at the hearth, and a panoramic terrace with sweeping views over the Tiber valley and the surrounding hills. It is one of the town's classic addresses, the kind locals have brought visitors to for generations. The cooking is firmly traditional and meat-forward. Palombaccio - wood pigeon grilled over the open fire - is the emblematic dish, capturing Umbria's love of game; grilled steaks and other meats share the hearth, and seasonal truffle dishes appear when the local tuber is in. Handmade pasta, cured meats and regional vegetables round out the menu. The dining rooms are warm and rustic, but in fair weather the terrace is the place to be, and its tables are by far the most sought-after seats in the house. The atmosphere is relaxed and convivial with a comfortable noise level; dress is casual. The wine list is regional, with Grechetto, Sagrantino and other Umbrian labels at fair prices. Ristorante Umbria serves lunch and dinner, roughly 11AM to 3PM and 7PM to 10:30PM, generally Wednesday to Monday and often closed Tuesday. Prices are moderate, good value for the grilled specialities and the view. Because the terrace is small and the restaurant well known, booking ahead is strongly advised, and requesting a terrace table is essential for the panorama - sunset is the prize time. The autumn season is best for game such as palombaccio and for truffle. First-time visitors should order a grilled meat from the hearth and, if possible, eat on the terrace as the light falls over the valley.