Le Grotte del Funaro

Le Grotte del Funaro is among Orvieto's most distinctive places to eat, set inside a series of hand-dug medieval caves carved into the tufa cliff that the old town sits upon. Reached via Via Ripa Serancia near the western edge of the centre, the restaurant turns the volcanic rock into its dining rooms - cool, atmospheric grottoes named, the story goes, for a rope-maker (funaro) who once worked the caves. The cooking is broad and crowd-pleasing rather than rarefied: truffles and porcini in season, game and grilled meats cooked over fire, and a list of wood-fired pizzas that makes the place workable for families and mixed groups as well as serious eaters. It is the combination of striking setting and something for everyone that has made it an Orvieto fixture. The grottoes are characterful and convivial, with stone all around, a warm glow and a lively but not overwhelming noise level; dress is casual. The wine list is regional, with Orvieto Classico whites and Umbrian reds, and some grottoes double as cellar space. Service is geared to turning a busy room efficiently. Le Grotte del Funaro serves lunch and dinner and closes Monday. Prices are moderate, helped by the pizza option, which keeps the place accessible. Because the cave setting is a genuine draw and the restaurant is well known, booking ahead is sensible for dinner and weekends; those who want the full cave effect should ask to be seated deeper inside the grottoes rather than near the entrance. Diners after Orvieto's truffle and game tradition should order from the kitchen's seasonal specials, while pizza is the easy, economical fallback for lighter appetites or children.