Rocca Albornoziana and Museo del Ducato, Spoleto

The Rocca Albornoziana is the great papal fortress that crowns the hill above Spoleto, a massive rectangular stronghold of six towers built from 1359 for Cardinal Egidio Albornoz to reassert papal authority over central Italy. Within its walls lie two handsome courtyards: the Cortile delle Armi, once the soldiers' yard, and the more refined Cortile d'Onore, ringed by a frescoed loggia where the governors lived. For much of the 20th century the Rocca served as a high-security prison, holding political prisoners and, later, members of the Red Brigades, before its restoration as a cultural site. Today it houses the Museo Nazionale del Ducato di Spoleto, whose collection traces the art and history of the Lombard and medieval duchy that once governed a swathe of central Italy from Spoleto, with sculpture, sarcophagi, jewellery, frescoes and detached wall paintings displayed through the restored halls. From the ramparts and upper rooms the views are superb, taking in the Ponte delle Torri spanning the gorge and the wooded heights of Monteluco. A visit combining the museum and the courtyards usually takes ninety minutes to two hours. The fortress sits at the very top of the old town and is most easily reached by the chain of covered escalators and walkways that climb from the lower car parks, sparing the steep walk. Afternoons pair well with a continuing stroll to the nearby Ponte delle Torri. The museum has its own admission, while the outer grounds are free, and opening days vary by season, so checking ahead is wise.