Ristorante Bongarrà

Ristorante Bongarrà is a beloved institution in Messina, the port city at Sicily's north-eastern tip that guards the strait separating the island from the Italian mainland. The Strait of Messina is famous for its swordfish, hunted here for centuries, and Bongarrà has built its reputation on serving the city's signature dish properly: pesce spada alla messinese, swordfish cooked with the classic Messinese flavours of tomato, capers, green olives and pine nuts. The kitchen treats the local catch with respect and tradition rather than reinvention, and its antipasto di mare, a generous spread of marinated and cooked seafood, is frequently singled out as exceptional. Grilled fish, seafood pastas and seasonal specialities round out a menu that follows what the boats land. The dining room is comfortable and traditional, the service warm, and the clientele includes a loyal base of locals who treat it as a reliable special-meal spot; smart-casual dress is appropriate. Prices sit at a fair mid-range. Messina sees fewer tourists than Sicily's headline destinations, and is often a transit point for ferries to and from Calabria, which makes a meal at Bongarrà a particularly authentic, local-feeling experience. Booking ahead a day or so is sensible for weekend dinners. The restaurant is within reach of the city centre and the cathedral square, with its famous astronomical clock, making it a good lunch or dinner stop for travellers passing through. For anyone wanting to taste the definitive Messinese swordfish where locals eat it, Ristorante Bongarrà is the classic choice.