Don Camillo

Don Camillo is one of the most respected restaurants in Ortigia, the island heart of Syracuse on Sicily's south-eastern coast, where it has been a fixture for over half a century. Housed along Via Maestranza beneath stone arches that hint at the historic fabric of the old town, it built its name on impeccably fresh fish drawn from the daily market and treated with a respect for tradition rather than a taste for showmanship. The kitchen's most celebrated dish is the pasta al nero di seppia, the inky cuttlefish pasta that locals consider a benchmark of Siracusano cooking, alongside a frittura mista di pesce of lightly fried small fish and shellfish. Crudo of red prawn, grilled catch of the day and seasonal antipasti di mare round out a menu that changes with what the boats bring in. The dining room is elegant in an understated, classic way — arched stone, white linen, attentive service — and strikes a balance between special-occasion polish and unpretentious warmth; smart-casual dress is appropriate. The wine cellar is notably deep, with strong representation of Sicilian and Italian labels and a particular love of the local Nero d'Avola and Moscato di Siracusa. Given its long-standing reputation, Don Camillo draws both discerning locals and travellers, and booking a day or two ahead is advisable, more for weekend dinners in the busy season from spring to autumn. Ortigia is compact and atmospheric, and the restaurant lies within easy walking distance of the Piazza Duomo, the Fonte Aretusa and the seafront, so a meal here pairs perfectly with an evening stroll through one of Sicily's most beguiling old quarters. For seafood with genuine Siracusano pedigree, Don Camillo remains a benchmark.