Cefalù Cathedral

The Duomo of Cefalù dominates this seaside town on Sicily's northern coast, its twin fortress-like towers rising against the sheer La Rocca cliff behind. Begun in 1131 under Roger II, it is one of the great monuments of Arab-Norman Sicily and part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing that links Palermo's Norman churches with Cefalù and Monreale. The undisputed treasure lies in the apse: a colossal Christ Pantocrator mosaic, completed around 1145, in which the figure of Christ raises a hand in blessing above ranks of angels and saints rendered in shimmering gold. Created by Byzantine masters a generation before Monreale, it is among the earliest and most moving of Sicily's mosaic Christs, his expression unusually gentle. The interior is otherwise austere, its tall nave lined with antique columns and a fine wooden ceiling, which throws the brilliance of the mosaic into greater relief. A focused visit takes around an hour, and the cathedral fronts the handsome Piazza del Duomo, a natural place to pause with a coffee beneath the cliff. Morning light entering the apse windows is best for seeing the mosaic, and arriving early also avoids the midday flow of beach visitors and day-trippers from Palermo. The cathedral is an active church, so modest dress covering shoulders and knees is required, and visits may pause during Mass. Photography is generally allowed without flash. Many visitors combine the cathedral with the steep climb up La Rocca for panoramic views over the terracotta rooftops and the curve of the bay, or with a wander through the medieval lanes down to the old fishing harbour. The cathedral near Palermo charges a small fee for the upper areas while the nave is freely accessible.