Caffe Mulassano

Caffe Mulassano is a jewel-box Art Nouveau cafe just off Piazza Castello in central Turin, open since 1907 and widely credited as the birthplace of the tramezzino, the soft crustless triangular sandwich that became an Italian classic. The interior is the draw as much as the food: a tiny, opulent space barely a few metres wide, lined with carved wood, marble, leather and a celebrated coffered ceiling, much of it original and beautifully preserved. Most custom is taken standing at the counter, in the Italian way, for a quick espresso or a tramezzino filled with combinations such as tuna and egg, anchovy and butter, or vitello tonnato. The cafe is also a classic stop for an aperitivo, pouring vermouth in the city that invented it, a fitting ritual given Turin's vermouth heritage. The atmosphere is brisk and elegant, busy at peak coffee and aperitivo hours, with a handful of seats and standing room only at the bar; service is quick and traditional. Prices follow the Italian custom of costing more if seated than standing, and remain modest for such a historic address. There are no reservations; it is a walk-in counter cafe. Visiting mid-morning or for an early-evening aperitivo lets visitors enjoy the room without the busiest crush, and its position by Piazza Castello makes it an easy stop between the Royal Palace and the central shopping streets.