Caffe Mulassano

Caffe Mulassano occupies a tiny, opulent corner of Piazza Castello in the centre of Turin, the capital of Italy's Piedmont region, and is one of the historic cafes that define the city's drinking culture. Opened in 1907, the room is a perfectly preserved jewel box of carved walnut, marble, gilded leather ceilings and Liberty-style mirrors, seating only a couple of dozen people, and it is famous as the birthplace of the tramezzino, the small crustless sandwich now found across Italy. For nightlife purposes it is above all an aperitivo address, and Turin is the home of both the aperitivo ritual and of vermouth, the fortified, botanical-infused wine invented in the city in the eighteenth century. The list leans on vermouth served straight or in classic cocktails, alongside Negronis, Americanos and spritzes, typically accompanied by tramezzini and small bites. The crowd is a mix of well-dressed Torinesi keeping up a daily ritual and visitors drawn by the history, and the mood is refined and conversational rather than raucous; there is no formal dress code but smart-casual fits the surroundings. Music is incidental, so this is a place for talking and tasting rather than dancing. Prices reflect the central location and heritage setting, with vermouth and cocktails generally in the 8 to 14 euro range and no cover charge, though the aperitivo nibbles that come with a drink are part of the deal. The cafe opens daily from morning, with the early evening aperitivo hours the liveliest window, and because the room is so small, securing one of the few tables can mean a short wait at peak times, so arriving early or standing at the historic bar are the usual options. Its position on Piazza Castello, steps from the Royal Palace and the Galleria Subalpina, makes it a natural first stop on an evening in central Turin, whether as a standalone aperitivo or the prelude to dinner in the nearby Quadrilatero.