Asti is the elegant capital of the Monferrato, a city of medieval towers and noble palaces famous worldwide for its sparkling Asti Spumante and Moscato wines. Each September it stages the spectacular bareback Palio di Asti, one of Italy's oldest horse races, while its surrounding hills - another UNESCO wine landscape - brim with Barbera and Grignolino cellars.
Asti lies about 55 km east of Turin and is one of the easiest and most rewarding day trips in Piedmont, reached by frequent Trenitalia regional trains from Porta Nuova in 40-60 minutes or by the A21 motorway in around 50 minutes. The elegant capital of the Monferrato, Asti grew rich in the Middle Ages as a banking and trading power, and its skyline still bristles with the medieval towers of its merchant families - the tall Torre Troyana (Torre dell'Orologio) can be climbed for sweeping rooftop views. The city is internationally famous for wine: the sweet sparkling Asti Spumante and Moscato d'Asti, along with the deep red Barbera d'Asti, are made in the surrounding hills, themselves part of the UNESCO-listed Langhe-Roero and Monferrato vineyard landscape. Asti's great spectacle is the Palio di Asti, a bareback horse race held on the third Sunday of September that claims to be among the oldest in Italy, preceded by a grand medieval procession through the streets. The same month brings the Douja d'Or, a prestigious national wine fair, and the Festival delle Sagre, a parade of food traditions from the surrounding villages. Beyond the festivals, a day in Asti rewards wandering: the Romanesque-Gothic Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, the Collegiata di San Secondo dedicated to the city's patron, the arcaded Piazza Alfieri, and the birthplace of the dramatist Vittorio Alfieri. The cuisine is hearty Piedmontese - agnolotti, bagna cauda (a warm anchovy-garlic dip for vegetables in autumn and winter), robiola cheese, and game - washed down with local Barbera. The trip pairs naturally with the Moscato hills around Canelli, with their historic 'underground cathedrals' of sparkling-wine cellars, and with Nizza Monferrato, both a short onward train ride or drive. Spring and autumn offer the most pleasant weather for exploring the city on foot, but September, with the Palio and the wine fairs, is the most vibrant time to visit.
How to get there
- Train: Turin Porta Nuova to Asti (40-60 min, frequent)
- Car: A21 Turin-Piacenza motorway to Asti (about 50 min)
- Train onward to Alba or Nizza Monferrato from Asti
- Organized Monferrato wine tour from Turin
Location
Asti train station, Piazza Guglielminetti, 14100 Asti AT
44.9009, 8.2065 View on map
Highlights
- Medieval towers, including the Torre Troyana
- The Palio di Asti bareback horse race (September)
- Asti Spumante, Moscato, and Barbera d'Asti wines
- The Collegiata di San Secondo and Gothic cathedral
Tips for visiting
- Visit on the third Sunday of September for the Palio
- The September Douja d'Or wine fair showcases regional wines
- Climb the Torre Troyana for views over the rooftops
- Pair Asti with the Moscato hills around Canelli and Nizza
When to visit
September is the most vibrant month, with the Palio and wine fairs, though it draws crowds. Spring and early autumn offer comfortable weather and quieter streets for exploring the towers, churches, and surrounding wine hills.
Accessibility
Asti's flat historic centre is largely accessible, with level squares and arcaded streets, though some lanes are cobbled and climbing the Torre Troyana involves many steps. The Palio crowds in September can make movement difficult for those with mobility limits.
Frequently asked questions
When is the Palio di Asti held?
The Palio di Asti, a bareback horse race among the city's districts, is held on the third Sunday of September. It is preceded by a grand historical procession in medieval costume and is one of the oldest such races in Italy.
How long is the train from Turin to Asti?
Frequent direct Trenitalia regional and regional-veloce trains link Turin Porta Nuova with Asti in 40-60 minutes, making it one of the quickest day trips from the city. Fares are around €5-7 each way.
What wines is Asti known for?
Asti is famous for the sweet sparkling Asti Spumante and the lightly fizzy Moscato d'Asti, as well as the red Barbera d'Asti. The surrounding Monferrato hills are dotted with cellars producing these and other Piedmontese wines.
What else is on in September?
Alongside the Palio, September brings the Douja d'Or national wine fair and the Festival delle Sagre, a parade of food and wine traditions from the surrounding villages. It is the busiest and most festive month to visit Asti.