Spiaggia di Portonovo (Conero Riviera)

Spiaggia di Portonovo lies in a deep, sheltered bay roughly 12 kilometres south of Ancona, tucked beneath the densely wooded slopes of Monte Conero within the protected Parco del Conero. The beach is composed of pale white pebbles rather than sand and stretches for over a kilometre, with the water taking on the clear emerald-turquoise tones for which the Conero coast is known. Unlike the developed Adriatic lidos to the north, Portonovo retains a wild, natural character: behind the shore sit two small coastal lagoons, the Lago Grande and Lago Profondo, and the eleventh-century Romanesque church of Santa Maria di Portonovo stands among the trees, while the Napoleonic fort and the Torre Clementina watchtower punctuate the bay. The beach mixes free public stretches with a number of stabilimenti offering sunbeds, parasols, and restaurants, and the area is celebrated for its seafood, in particular the wild moscioli mussels of Portonovo, a Slow Food presidium served grilled or in local pasta. Kayaks and SUPs can be hired to explore the cliffs and reach the smaller coves of La Vela and Il Trave, the latter marked by a long natural rock spit running out to sea. The pebble shore shelves into deep, clean water that suits swimming and snorkeling, though it is less forgiving for very small children than a sandy lido. Access is by a winding road down from the Conero plateau, with paid car parks that fill quickly on summer weekends; a seasonal shuttle bus runs from Ancona. Walking trails from the bay climb steeply through the holm-oak forest of Monte Conero, linking the beach to the wider network of park footpaths. The combination of clear water, dramatic cliffs, nature reserve, ancient church, and renowned seafood makes Portonovo the most complete and atmospheric stretch of the Conero Riviera.