Lodi

Lodi is an undervisited city on the River Adda in southern Lombardy, about 30 kilometres south-east of Milan, founded in its present form in 1158 and centred on one of the finest medieval squares in the region. The arcaded Piazza della Vittoria, lined on all four sides with porticoes, opens onto the Romanesque Duomo, one of Lombardy's largest cathedrals, with a sober brick facade, a carved portal and a crypt sheltering the relics of Saint Bassiano. A short walk away stands the city's jewel, the octagonal Renaissance church of the Tempio dell'Incoronata, its interior a dazzling casket of gilded stucco and frescoes by the Piazza brothers and other Lombard masters. Beyond the monuments, Lodi rewards wandering: a compact historic centre of quiet streets, the riverside, a tradition of fine ceramics, and a rich local cuisine built on Lodigiano dairy, raspadüra cheese shavings and tortelli. The city also carries a place in history as the site of Napoleon's decisive victory at the Bridge of Lodi in 1796. A visit takes two to three hours, easily a relaxed half-day with lunch. As a place still largely off the tourist trail, Lodi is rarely crowded, busiest only on market days and weekends; weekday visits are especially peaceful. The arcaded square and the glittering interior of the Incoronata are the photographic highlights. Reached in around half an hour by train from Milan, Lodi makes an easy and authentic day trip for those wanting Lombard art, architecture and food without the crowds of the better-known cities.