Grazia & Graziella, Frascati

Grazia & Graziella is a classic cantina in Frascati, the best-known of the Castelli Romani wine towns in the hills southeast of Rome, famous for its crisp white Frascati DOC wine. The cantina (or fraschetta) is a Castelli institution: a rustic tavern where locally produced wine, traditionally served by the carafe straight from the barrel, is enjoyed alongside simple, hearty country food. Grazia & Graziella offers exactly this experience, pairing inexpensive Frascati DOC white with porchetta (the famous herbed roast pork of nearby Ariccia), cured meats, cheeses, bruschetta, pasta and other robust local dishes. The appeal is the conviviality and authenticity as much as the food: this is everyday Castelli eating and drinking, designed to be shared at simple tables over an unhurried afternoon or evening. The setting is informal and characterful, busy with locals and weekend day-trippers up from Rome to escape the city and enjoy the wine country; casual dress is the norm and the atmosphere is relaxed and sociable. Prices are very low, with porchetta plates around €6 and a carafe of Frascati just a few euros, making it outstanding value. Frascati itself is an easy and popular excursion from Rome—reachable by regional train in around half an hour—with panoramic views, the grand Villa Aldobrandini and a wine culture stretching back to antiquity. A visit to a cantina like this is the essential way to experience it. Open long hours daily, it suits a leisurely lunch or an early evening of wine and snacks. For a taste of Castelli Romani wine-town life, Grazia & Graziella is a delight.