Ai Tre Scalini

Ai Tre Scalini is a much-loved enoteca and wine bar on Via Panisperna in Monti, the characterful and fashionable neighbourhood tucked between the Colosseum and the main railway station, long favoured by Romans and visitors for an evening of wine and easy eating. Occupying a cosy, ivy-clad corner premises, the bar has a warm, lived-in character—wooden interiors, bottles stacked along the walls and a buzzy front room that spills onto pavement tables—that makes it a perennial favourite for aperitivo and informal dining. The focus is on wine, with a broad list of Italian labels available by the glass and bottle, accompanied by a menu of cheese and cured-meat boards, bruschette, soups, salads and a rotating selection of hearty Roman and Italian dishes such as polpette and seasonal specials. It is the kind of place to settle in for an unhurried evening over good wine and shared plates rather than a formal sit-down dinner, though the food is satisfying enough to make a full meal. The atmosphere is sociable, convivial and often lively, particularly in the evenings when Monti's bohemian-chic crowd fills the small space; tables are at a premium and the energy is part of the appeal. Casual dress suits the relaxed mood. Prices are moderate, with cheese and salumi boards around €15 and small plates from a few euros, fair for the quality and the prime Monti location. It does not generally take reservations and fills quickly after work and into the evening, so arriving early improves the chance of a table. For wine, atmosphere and a taste of one of Rome's most appealing neighbourhoods, Ai Tre Scalini is a reliable favourite.