Modena

Modena sits about 40 km (25 miles) north-west of Bologna on the Via Emilia in Emilia-Romagna, and is one of the easiest day trips from the city. Regional trains from Bologna Centrale take 25-35 minutes and cost roughly EUR 4-5 one way, with departures every 15-30 minutes, so no advance planning is needed. The station is about a 15-minute walk from the historic centre, which is largely closed to traffic. A morning arrival suits the city well, because the covered Mercato Albinelli on Via Albinelli is liveliest before lunch, with stalls selling Parmigiano-Reggiano, cured meats, fresh pasta and local produce. From there the route runs to Piazza Grande, where the Romanesque Duomo, the Ghirlandina bell tower and the Palazzo Comunale form a UNESCO World Heritage ensemble. The cathedral, begun in 1099 and associated with the architect Lanfranco and the sculptor Wiligelmo, rewards a slow look at its carved facade reliefs. Climbing the Ghirlandina gives views over the rooftops and the plain. Modena is also the home of traditional balsamic vinegar, and several acetaie in and around the city offer guided tastings of aged Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, usually by reservation. Motor enthusiasts can continue to the Museo Casa Enzo Ferrari in the city or the Ferrari museum at Maranello, a short bus or taxi ride away. A sensible one-day arc is the market and cathedral in the morning, a long lunch of tortellini in brodo, gnocco fritto with salumi, or cotoletta alla modenese, then a vinegar tasting or museum visit in the afternoon, returning by an evening train. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons, and autumn adds the harvest and mushroom menus. Many shops and some museums close for a long midday break and on Mondays, so checking opening hours before travelling avoids wasted time. Driving is not advised because the Modena ZTL restricts traffic in the centre and parking outside it is needed.