Quadrilatero (Mercato di Mezzo and Via Pescherie Vecchie)

The Quadrilatero is the medieval market grid of narrow lanes just east of Piazza Maggiore in Bologna, Emilia-Romagna, the region that gave the world tortellini, mortadella, Parmigiano Reggiano and balsamic vinegar. The main streets are Via Pescherie Vecchie, Via Drapperie, Via Clavature and Via Orefici, named for the fishmongers, cloth merchants, locksmiths and goldsmiths who once traded here. Today the lanes are lined with delis, bakeries, fishmongers, greengrocers, wine shops and pasta makers where staff roll sfoglia by hand in view of the street. Visitors browse hanging salumi, wheels of cheese and trays of fresh tagliatelle, and can taste or buy by the slice. The Mercato di Mezzo food hall on Via Clavature adds several stands and a bar with seating for a quick lunch. Via Pescherie Vecchie is the liveliest and most photogenic lane, with market stalls spilling onto the cobbles under the arcades. A visit usually takes one to two hours, longer with a meal. The busiest period is Saturday around midday, when the lanes are packed; weekday mornings between 9AM and noon give the freshest produce and the most room. Many shops close on Thursday afternoon and on Sundays, so plan accordingly. In the evening, the bars and wine shops fill for aperitivo. Typical purchases include mortadella, prosciutto, Parmigiano Reggiano, fresh egg pasta and tortellini, with prices set by weight, so asking for the price before ordering is wise. The district is a short walk from the Due Torri and from the Basilica di San Petronio, which makes it a natural stop between landmarks.