Ramnagar Fort

Ramnagar Fort stands on the eastern bank of the Ganges, opposite the ghats of Varanasi, in Ramnagar, Uttar Pradesh. It was built around 1750 by Raja Balwant Singh, the ruler of Benares, and it has served as the residence of the Maharajas of Benares since. The fort is built of creamy Chunar sandstone and rises directly from the river, with carved balconies, open courtyards and pavilions. Balwant Singh's successors, notably Chet Singh in the 1780s, were involved in conflicts with the East India Company under Warren Hastings, after which the state was brought under British influence while retaining the title of Maharaja.

The fort is an example of late Mughal-influenced architecture adapted to a riverside setting, and it is a family residence still, which is why only part of it is open. Inside, the museum is the main attraction. It displays a collection of vintage cars including American models of the early 20th century, antique weapons and armour, elephant howdahs and palanquins, royal costumes, jewellery, ivory pieces, ancient clocks and manuscripts. The Durbar Hall holds ceremonial furniture and portraits. An astronomical clock in the fort is said to show the day, month and planetary positions. The fort also hosts the Ramlila performance of the Ramayana, held for around a month each autumn, an unbroken tradition supported by the royal family.

The display is organised more as a princely collection than a chronological narrative, and labelling is limited, so the experience is that of walking through the relics of a royal household. Some areas are weathered and parts of the structure show wear from river damp and age, as maintenance is limited. Visitors usually reach the fort from Varanasi by crossing the Ganges, either by boat or on the seasonal pontoon bridge during the dry months, since the permanent bridge route takes longer. The fort is much quieter than the Varanasi ghats and offers views back toward the city's riverfront, especially in the early morning.