Chitrakoot Ramghat and Kamadgiri

Chitrakoot Dham is a pilgrimage town on the Mandakini River at the southern edge of Uttar Pradesh, near the border with Madhya Pradesh, where tradition says Rama, Sita and Lakshmana spent part of their exile. The two main experiences are Ramghat and Kamadgiri. Ramghat is a line of bathing steps on the Mandakini in the town centre, with temples and small shrines along the bank, boatmen offering short rides, and a lively evening aarti at dusk in which lamps are floated and bells and chanting fill the riverfront. Kamadgiri is a forested hill revered as the embodiment of Rama's presence; pilgrims walk a circumambulation, the parikrama, of about five kilometres along a path lined with shrines, shops and rest points, often barefoot and in a spirit of devotion. A full circuit takes about two hours at a steady pace, while the Ramghat visit adds a further hour or two, so the experience suits a half-day. Chitrakoot Dham Karwi railway station is about 8 km away, with shared autos and taxis completing the journey. Mornings are best for the parikrama, as the path is cooler and quieter, while the evening is best for the aarti at Ramghat. Crowds swell on Amavasya, the new-moon day, when large numbers of pilgrims arrive for a bath and the parikrama, and during Diwali, Ram Navami and Sharad Purnima festivals. Monkeys are numerous around Kamadgiri, and visitors guard food and sunglasses. Entry is free, though boat rides and temple offerings cost extra. Modest dress is expected, and footwear is removed at shrines. Basic lodging and vegetarian food are available in the town.