Zampa Bazaar Grills (Begumpura)

Zampa Bazaar Grills refers to the old-city lanes of barbecue joints around Zampa Bazar and Begumpura in the Salabatpura area of Surat, Gujarat. This is the centre of Surat's Muslim grill and kebab culture, in a part of the city that is otherwise known for its vegetarian-leaning cuisine, and it is the best-known non-vegetarian food area in town. The joints are known for orange-marinated poultry cooked in barrel ovens, served with fresh rotis straight from the tandoor, and for the deep-fried Rangooni paratha, a flaky flatbread stuffed with spiced minced meat that is a local speciality. An egg stall at Begumpura is known for ghotalo, an egg dish scrambled and cooked with spices on a large griddle. Other typical items include seekh kebabs, tikkas, bheja fry and sheermal, and the cooking is heavily spiced, charred and oily in the old-city style. Most places cook outdoors or at open fronts in narrow lanes, so the smoke and aroma set the atmosphere. The dining character is informal and crowded: plastic stools, shared benches and some small indoor rooms, with a high noise level as the lanes fill after sunset. There is no dress code and no alcohol; soft drinks, tea and lassi are common. Prices are low, roughly INR 100-350 per person. No reservations are taken, and the lanes come alive in the evening after sunset, particularly during Ramzan nights when the area stays busy until late. The lanes are narrow and the crowd thick, so visitors should keep belongings secure and consider going with a local guide or companion on a first visit. The area is reachable by auto-rickshaw or ride-hailing from the city centre and the railway station, and it sits close to other old-city sights such as the Surat Castle and Chauta Bazaar. This is a non-vegetarian area, which should be noted by vegetarian travellers.