Halki Island

Halki, also spelled Chalki, is a tiny island about 80 km west of Rhodes Town by sea in Greece's Dodecanese, with fewer than 500 residents. The crossing takes roughly 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours, and the island is reached either by ferry from the Rhodes Town Commercial Port, which sails several times a week, or by the daily summer day boat from Skala Kamiros on the west coast of Rhodes. The boat from Skala Kamiros is usually the most convenient day option, because it is timed for a morning arrival and an afternoon return. Both services arrive at Emporio, the only harbour village, a ring of restored pastel houses around a small bay with a church bell tower on the quay. The village has a calm atmosphere, with no large resorts and few vehicles. A one-day itinerary begins with coffee on the waterfront and a short walk through Emporio to see the neoclassical mansions that date from the island's prosperous sponge-diving era. The main excursion is the walk or short drive up to the abandoned village of Chorio, a hillside settlement of stone houses, chapels and ruins beneath a Knights of St John castle. The path takes about 45 minutes uphill on foot, and a taxi is available for those who prefer a lift. Pondamos beach, a pebble cove a short walk from the harbour, is the usual place for a swim in clear water in the afternoon. Tavernas in Emporio serve grilled fish, fresh seafood and the local dishes of the Dodecanese, and lunch at the waterfront is a leisurely part of the day. Pastries and cold drinks are available at the small cafes near the quay. May, June and September offer warm weather and quiet lanes, and July and August are hotter but still manageable by the water. Visitors should check the return time with the boat operator on arrival, as the schedule leaves only a few hours on the island and ferries from Rhodes Town do not always allow a same-day return. Bringing cash is wise, because cards are not accepted everywhere on the island.