Meltemi, Naxos

Meltemi sits at the southern end of Agios Georgios Beach, the long sandy beach closest to Naxos Town port that stretches from the foot of the old fortified Kastro down to a shallow turquoise bay. The taverna has been a fixture of the beach for years, serving the classic Aegean beach-restaurant menu — grilled octopus, fried calamari, fresh fish, Cycladic mezedes — to a mix of beach-goers, island visitors, and local families who use Agios Georgios as their neighbourhood beach. The named meltemi wind that sweeps the Cyclades in summer from the north keeps the taverna terrace pleasantly cool even in the heat of August, and the combination of breeze, shade, and cold Naxos Graviera on a hot plate with sea views is one of the island's most uncomplicated pleasures. The grilled octopus with a glass of ouzo has become an almost ritual order at this type of beachside taverna, and Meltemi's version — octopus hung in the sun to dry before charcoal-grilling — is consistently well executed. The Naxos graviera cheese plate, using the island's protected-designation cheese, rounds out a roster of Cycladic staples delivered without unnecessary complication. Prices are fair for the beachfront category.