Barbouni, Paros

Barbouni takes its name from the Greek word for red mullet (barbounia), and the restaurant lives up to the namesake fish by making it the centrepiece of a seafood menu focused on the daily catch from the Naoussa fishing fleet. The restaurant sits in the curved harbour of Naoussa, one of the most picturesque fishing villages in the Cyclades, with tables looking directly at the bobbing caiques and the whitewashed hillside houses beyond. The setting alone would justify a visit — Naoussa harbour is one of the most photographed harbour scenes in the South Aegean — but the kitchen adds genuine substance. Red mullet arrives whole, grilled over charcoal and dressed with nothing more than lemon, olive oil, and sea salt; fisherman's stew combines whatever the boats brought in that morning with tomato, white wine, and fresh herbs; saganaki shrimp baked in a tomato and feta sauce is a perennial favourite. The wine list leans toward Greek whites, particularly Parian wines alongside Santorini Assyrtiko. Service is warm and knowledgeable about the day's catch. Reservations are advisable in July and August for harbour-facing tables, which are highly requested. The narrow medieval lanes of Naoussa Chora surrounding the harbour make for excellent pre- or post-dinner exploration.