Galini

Galini is a classic waterfront taverna in the small harbour village of Agia Galini on the south coast of Rethymno prefecture — one of the most characterful fishing villages on Crete's southern shore and a popular base for those exploring the remote south coast between the Messara plain to the east and the Sfakia mountains to the west. Agia Galini has a compact, picturesque harbour where fishing boats tie up directly in front of the waterfront restaurants, and Galini occupies one of the prime positions on the harbour front, with terrace tables a few metres from where the boats are moored. The restaurant name itself — 'Galini' meaning 'calm' or 'serenity' in Greek — reflects the character of the place and the village. The cooking is solid and honest Cretan taverna food: daily fresh fish from the local fleet, moussaka made in the traditional style with minced beef and béchamel, Cretan salad with local produce, and house wine from barrel. The fish of the day — whatever the boats brought in that morning — is the primary order. Red mullet (barbounia), sea bream, and fresh calamari are typical. The moussaka is reliable and well-made. The barrel retsina (resinated wine) served cold by the glass or small jug is the traditional accompaniment to a long south-coast lunch. The atmosphere is fully in keeping with the village: relaxed, unhurried, and authentic in the way that south coast Cretan villages maintain more easily than the busier north coast towns. Agia Galini is accessible by road from Rethymno (approximately 60 kilometres) or Heraklion (approximately 65 kilometres). Galini operates April to October. No reservations needed.