Ano Poli (Upper Town)

Ano Poli, meaning Upper Town, is the historic hillside quarter above central Thessaloniki in northern Greece and one of the few districts that escaped the great fire of 1917. Its narrow, steep lanes preserve Ottoman-era timber-framed houses with overhanging upper floors, small courtyard gardens, whitewashed walls and pastel facades, alongside Byzantine churches and fragments of the old city walls. Visitors typically wander uphill without a fixed route, passing neighbourhood tavernas, cafes with terraces and small squares. The district is crowned by the Byzantine walls and the Heptapyrgion fortress at the northern edge, and from the upper lanes and wall sections the view stretches over the rooftops of the centre to the Thermaic Gulf. Notable stops include the early Christian Church of Osios David, with its apse mosaic, and the Byzantine city walls and Trigonion Tower. The streets are free to enter at any time, and a thorough wander takes two to three hours, longer if combined with a meal. The walk up from Agiou Dimitriou takes roughly 15 to 25 minutes and is steep; city buses and taxis also reach the upper gate, with the current line best checked on the OASTH website. Late afternoon is the favoured time, when the light is soft and sunset colours the gulf, and the cafes near the walls fill with locals. Midday in summer can be hot, with little shade on the steepest stretches. Streets are cobbled or sloped in places, so comfortable shoes with grip are important. Mornings are quiet and residential, and the neighbourhood remains a living community, so visitors are asked to keep noise down and respect private courtyards.