Zagorochoria Villages

The Zagorochoria, or Zagori villages, are a group of about 46 to 48 stone-built mountain settlements in the Pindus range of Epirus, northwestern Greece, north of Ioannina. Roofs of grey slate, walls of local stone and lanes paved with cobbles give the villages a uniform look quite different from the whitewashed Greece of the islands. Well-known villages include Monodendri, Papigo, Aristi, Tsepelovo, Kipi and Koukouli, and many have a central plane-tree square, a small church and mansions built by merchants who prospered abroad in the 18th and 19th centuries. The area is also known for its arched stone bridges, such as the single-span Kipi bridges and the Plakidas (Kalogeriko) bridge, built without mortar and crossing streams in forested valleys. Vikos Gorge, one of the deepest canyons in the world relative to its width, runs through the district, and the twin villages of Mikro and Megalo Papigo lie beneath the limestone Astraka peaks with the Dragonlake of Tymfi above. Hiking trails link villages along old mule paths, and rafting and kayaking are possible on the Voidomatis river in spring. A visit to a few villages takes a day, but two or three nights give time to walk between them. Photography is rewarding in the early morning, when mist hangs in the valleys, and in autumn, when the beech forests turn gold. Crowds are small and mostly come at weekends; winter brings snow and a quiet atmosphere, with guesthouses open for skiers and walkers. The villages are best explored by car, as bus services are infrequent, and guesthouses often serve local pies and mountain cheeses. Visits are free.