Pelion Peninsula

The Pelion Peninsula is a mountainous finger of land in Magnesia, eastern Thessaly, in central Greece, curving around the Pagasetic Gulf south-east of the port city of Volos. In Greek mythology it was the home of the centaurs, including the wise Chiron, and today it is known for green forested slopes, apple and chestnut orchards, and some twenty-four traditional stone villages linked by old cobbled paths called kalderimia. The western side faces the calm Pagasetic Gulf, while the eastern side drops steeply to the Aegean, with beaches such as Mylopotamos, Fakistra and Damouchari, the latter used as a filming location for Mamma Mia!. Villages with distinctive Pelion architecture, slate roofs and mansions with projecting upper floors include Makrinitsa, nicknamed the Balcony of Pelion for its views over Volos, Portaria, Zagora, Milies and Tsagarada, where a plane tree is said to be over a thousand years old. The old narrow-gauge railway between Ano Lechonia and Milies, nicknamed Moutzouris, runs heritage excursions on selected days across a stone viaduct. Visitors usually explore the peninsula by car over two to four days, because roads are winding and distances between villages are longer than they appear. Typical activities include hiking the kalderimia, swimming at Aegean beaches, tasting local products such as tsipouro, spoon sweets, honey and pies from Zagora, and, in winter, skiing at the small Agriolefkes resort. A day trip from Volos can cover Makrinitsa, Portaria and Milies, while a longer stay allows for the eastern beaches. Crowds peak in July and August on the beaches, and in winter weekends when Athenians visit the villages. Spring brings flowering orchards and good walking weather, and autumn offers apples, chestnuts and mild temperatures. Winter can be cold and wet, with snow on the higher villages. Bookings in guesthouses are advisable during holidays and summer weekends. Fuel up in Volos or major villages, as stations are fewer on the eastern side.