taku (Excelsior Hotel Ernst)

taku is a Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant inside the Excelsior Hotel Ernst at Trankgasse 1-5 in Cologne's Altstadt-Nord, in North Rhine-Westphalia, directly beside the cathedral and the main station. The hotel is one of the city's grand historic addresses, and taku occupies a room that offers a calm contrast to the busy surroundings. The cuisine is Japanese, presented mainly as a seasonal tasting menu in which the kitchen combines Japanese technique with high-quality European produce. Because the menu follows the season, specific dishes change, and the format is the main draw rather than any one plate. The dining room is composed and minimal, with a quiet, serious mood, and the service is attentive and paced for a long meal. Smart dress is customary, particularly in an upscale hotel. A selection of sake, Japanese tea and wine is typically available to accompany the courses. Prices are at the top of the scale ($$$$), and current prices should be confirmed with the hotel at www.excelsiorhotelernst.com. Service is in the evening on selected days only, so the calendar should be checked before planning a visit. Reservations are essential, and booking ahead is advised, especially for weekends and for periods when trade fairs bring business travellers to the city. Dietary needs, including allergies, should be mentioned when reserving. The location beside the cathedral means the restaurant is a short walk from the Hohenzollern Bridge, the Rhine and the main station, so it combines easily with an afternoon of sightseeing in the old town, and hotel guests can reach it without leaving the building.