Lou Pistou, Nice

Lou Pistou is a small Niçoise bistro in Vieux-Nice, named for the pistou — the Provençal basil and garlic paste that is the base of the region's most famous summer soup — and dedicated to the traditional cooking of the Comté de Nice and the surrounding hinterland. The menu is a primer in classic Niçoise cuisine, with dishes that are rarely found prepared this carefully at this price point in the city. The soupe au pistou is the signature: made when basil is at its peak in July and August, it arrives as a dense broth of white beans, courgette, green beans, and pasta, finished with a spoonful of the house pistou. Ratatouille provençale — prepared long and slow rather than quickly sautéed, the vegetables melted into a soft, fragrant mass — is another standard that Lou Pistou executes with attention to tradition. A tarte aux citrons de Menton, made with the fragrant lemons from the Riviera, closes most meals with appropriate restraint. The lunch formula at €23 for three courses represents very good value in the Niçoise restaurant market. The dining room is compact — 25 to 30 covers — with closely set tables, a passage terrace for fair weather, and a neighbourhood atmosphere entirely unaffected by proximity to Vieux-Nice's tourist sites. The wine list prioritises Bellet AOC and Provençal rosé. Service is in French and English.